How rude, callous & insensitive can the British be at Shimoga! The locals at Shivamogga are even worse. . . today they can’t recall Keladi Shivappa Nayaka’s Palace (‘aramane’ – in Kannada). There’s a Beautiful tall giant statue of him on horse back which adorns the center of town. Memory is short lived! This city is gearing up to the ‘mall culture’.
This Palace cum Musuem is in the heart of city sandwitched between two temples in the bylanes of this growing metropolis – this is locally known as the museum. But once upon a time it was the most beautiful palace re-built by none other than Keladi Shivappa Nayaka (1645-1660) – one of the greatest Kings of the Keladi Dynasty. Keladi dynasty germinated in the year 1499. The first King was Chowdappa Nayaka in 1500 a noble man fit to be a leader. For the record the brave Queen Rani Chennamma comes from this same dynasty. This wooden Palace, a beautiful structure is supported with 16 carved wooden pillars, having a titled roof and is constructed entirely of rose wood in Indo-Sarcenic style. This new palace was built on the same site which was destroyed by Adil Shah of Bijapur. One sees a uncanny resemblance to the Tipu Sultan’s ‘summer palace’ at Bangalore. Yes! It was his inspiration! The only difference is Tipu’s summer palace at Bangalore has more Islamic motifs and Mugal design & architecture!
Keladi Shivappa Nayaka another dynamic illustrious king would be seated on the balcony and administer his rein below to his subjects in the durbar hall. This palace has two sets of staircases leading up & down and has adjoining rooms. This natural climatic controlled wooden structure is located in a spacious vast garden in the heart of the city, but in the by-lanes of Shimoga on the banks of the river Tunga which flows through the city. The entrance arch is not at all befitting the structure! Take the road opposite to the Sacred Heart’s Church situated on the main road.
Today, this palace is a museum housing artefacts, beautiful sculptures all over the place. The inside are display in glass locked cabinets – artefacts of bygone era. The courtyards and surrounding gardens have beautiful stone sculptures. It’s an amazing collection well displayed. Most important ones are sculptures from 10th century – Mahishasura Mardhini, 11th century – Uma Maheshwari and a Jain era jade Ganapati from 17th century. One hardly sees any visitors here except for the lonely caretaker or the watchman or the gardner, they turn into guides narrating the glorious history of the Keladi Dynasty! Shimoga has illustrious rulers of political linage – Satavahanas, Kadambas, Rastrakutas, Hoysalas, Jain Chieftains & Nayakas. Even today it’s a hot bed of state politics!
Beware don’t wander deep into the garden thicket enamoured by the lovely sculpted figurine statues, it’s a snake infested and habitat area. Stick to the paved garden path.
The Keladi Nayakas ruled parts of coastal regions of Karnataka extending upto Kasargod in Kerala, Malnad region and interior inland region of Karnataka. They had 4 capital cities during their rein, Keladi, Ikkeri, Nagara (Bidanur) and Kavaledurga. They were Lingayat kings who ruled from 1499 to 1763.
Queen Virammaji (1757-63) succumbed to the defeat by Hyder Ali & the Keladi kingdom became a part of Mysore kings – the Wodeyars. She was a prisoner at fort Madhugiri, near Tumkur-Bangalore. Madhav Rao-I of the Maratha Empire defeated Hyder Ali at the ‘Battle of Madhugiri’ and freed her. She went on to live in Pune under the protection of the Maratha Kingdom. Hyderali amassed great wealth from this war and region and had his differences with the Wodeyars. He started his lineage making Srirangapatnam his capital. After the British defeated & killed Tipu Sultan in the 4th Anglo-Mysore War 1799, they took over this Shimoga region (installing Wodyers back in rule here) and converted Keladi Shivappa Nayakas’s Palace to a saw mill and a storage facility of tree cut logs. Only in 1982 the Archeological Department of Karnataka has resorted this Palace and converted it to a Museum.
Keladis were vassals and part of the Vijayanagar Empire. After the battle of Talikota in 1565 where Vijayanagar Kingdom’s rule came to an end, they overthrew the local palegar and came to power in this region. They fought the Portuguese teaming with the Bunt Pepper Queen & Zamorin of Calicut and defeated them in 1618-19, they fought the Jain Chieftains and the Bijapur Sultanate consolidating the region under their power and rule. Pietro Delta Velle an Italian visitor and chronicler records the era. They had good trade-relationship with the English and Dutch and reconciled with the Portuguese too. Keladi’s were able adminstrators, lovers of arts & crafts, literature and tolerant to other religions and faiths. Sanskrit encyclopedic works were translated to current language of the people – Old Kannada. The second work done called ‘Shivanativaratnakara’ – here mentions Basavanna the spiritual leader of Lingyats and his Veerashaiva movement in 1709. One can see a number of temples built around this region – their art & architecture were inspired by a combination of work by Kadambas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagar and Dravidian styles – carved and built of stone. They also had 64 muts in Dakshina & Coastal Karnataka to propagate their faith. They were patrons of Sringeri Matha till the very end irrespective of other kings breaking away. Today the State Goddess stays put at Kollur – Mookambika is the deity of the land and is adorned with jewels presented by them and the Vijayanagar Hoysala lords.
Lingayatism was earlier a state religion of our state Karnataka, including the Mysore King Dynasty-the Wodeyars! These Mudirajas the Lingyat kings also ruled Kodagu under Haleri dynasty originating from Ikkeri (roots of Valmiki Community). Mudduraja found the first capital city of Kodagu land, levelling and building the town and a mud fort. This place was called ‘Mudduraja Keri’ or Mudduraja’s Town. He founded this place in 1681 and ruled the region for 50 years. Later it evolved to the name Madkeri! The mud fort at Madkeri was later strengthened and built to a proper fort by Tipu Sultan. The inefficient arrogant Haleri Dynasty’s last King Chikka Vira Raja a 20 year old heinous wild violent person after brief rebillion by local Kodavas in association with the British was captured in 1834 and dethroned. Kodagu came under the British rule. The Kingdom of Coorg was later amalgamated to the State of Karnataka by Independent Free India.
Valmiki people – Nayakas, Bedas, Talavaras ruled places like Chitradurga in Karnataka. They worship goddess ‘Ankamma’ and a mutt can be found at Chitradurga. The region around Tirupathi and Srikalahasti is known as Kalabharas – the ancestors of Muthurajas! It is these people who invaded Cholas, Cheras & Pandya kingdoms. These are all descendents of Valmikis from central India and the clan ruled most of south India for a long time. They were born rulers & leaders. Genetic by birth & nature.
Saraswat Brahmins too claim allegiance to being Valmikis. They were inhabitants living on the banks of the mystic river Saraswati in Rajasthan and lived in the Keladi regions. The Saraswats flourished under the Keladi kings especially when the Portuguese were driven out of Mangalore. They occupied important posts in the administration of Keladi’s like ambassadors and village head man. These Saraswats took on the village’s name on towards their name – as a surname.
Keladi kings gave lands to Christians for building their churches. Most of the people who immigrated to the shores of Goa were from this region, a lot did convert to Christianity. India’s 2nd biggest & tallest church in Shimoga is on the land given by Keladi Kings. This church is in the heart of the city on the main road.
Chief Kazi of Adil Shahi kingdom of Bijapur Sultanate was welcomed to settle at Bhatkal. Not only was he well settled, the revenue of the region of Tenginagudi was also given to him! The golden kalasa on the mosque dome at Bhatkal known as ‘Chinnada Palli’ meaning ‘Golden Mosque’ was a generous gift given by the Keladi rulers. Bhatkal is popularly known as Temunday family. Nawayath Muslims were appointed to various administative posts in the Keladi rule. As grace, some of the Nawayath Muslims have adopted the Keladi’s Capital Citys name – ‘Ikkeri’ as their surname to their existing names and are settled at Bhatkal. This Palace was a refuge in 1865 to the Maratha King’s Shivaji’s runway from the battle son Rajaram. Rani Chennamma took the wrath of this act much against the official advice of her court in shielding the fugitive against Arungzeb. However the brave gallant Queen defeated Arungzeb’s army and forced them to sign a treaty.
Keladi Nayakas introduced coins with resemblance to Vijayanagar Kingdom. Their coins had images of Hindu Gods Shiva & Parvati with Sun & Moon. Keladi Shivappa Nayaka levied taxes on agricultural produce based on the 5 types of soil. This was called – ‘Shistu’, at times he was even called Shistu Keladi Shivappa Nayaka. This system of taxing & administration was appreciated by the colonial British adminstrators in years to come. Some of the beautiful temples and architecture were destroyed by Muslim invaders mostly from the Bijapur Sultanate. The prominent one was the 32 hand deity of Aghoreshwara temple at Ikkeri.
Keladi Nayaka’s rule came to an end on petty fights and wars all over the region. The money paid to Marathas towards upkeep of peace or wars too drained their coffers. Small rulers, Chieftains never united and ultimately lost everything they had or owned. The British who came in guise of traders – East India Co. ultimately enjoyed Indian hospitality for more than 2 centuries! They took this lack of unity to their advantage ruling and plundering India.
Shimoga has survived the natural beauty and it’s prosperity and is an agrarian economy region. God has blessed this Garden of Eden. There are more than 25 tourist locales to see in this region – temples, hills, valleys, rivers, lakes, trekking zones, fields, plantations with amazing sunrise & sunsets points. A 7 day tiring trip would cover it all. This region is an artists and photographers delight! Brushing upon history is always educative wisdom. Historians would enjoy this region.
Make Shivamogga as a base to stay and travel around. Local buses and taxis are the mode to ply. This place is well connected by road and rail. Nearest international airport is Bangalore. Other smaller airports are Hubli and Mangalore. It’s advisable to travel by road. Plan your trip. This region gets crowded during holidays and weekends. The tourist season is post monsoon to January. The greenery is a pleasant sight. Bangalore to Shimoga by your own vehicle will take 6 hours, the distance is approximately 300 kms. Hubli & Mangalore are approximately 200 kms and is a 4 hour drive. They too have small airports! Staying accommodation, there are dime & dozen to suit every pocket. Restaurants basically serve South Indian Cuisine. Better to carry your own beverages & snacks on your field trips. Carrying a little cash is advisable. Very few scattered ATMs in the region and these simpletons trade in cash!
More on the Shimoga Tourist Circuit in time to come.
Jagdeesh Laxman Singh
aka Jugie Singh
Text & Photography
[email protected]
